Djerba: Rich Jewish History & The Riches Of Street Art
The island of Djerba has a unique and fascinating history of huge significance for those of Jewish faith. Legend has it that when Nebuchadnezzar II destroyed the Temple Of Solomon during the destruction of Jerusalem in 586BC, the fleeing high priests took with them sections of the temple, settled on Djerba and used the remnants to commence construction of a synagogue on the island.
Legend or fact? Story or history? DNA testing of the modern day community has revealed a high level of Kohanim lineage – direct descendants of the early high priests, so the story may well be founded on truth. The Jewish community on Djerba has survived and indeed thrived, the synagogue, known as El Ghriba, is still in use today and has been a place of worship continuously for over 2,000 years, making it the oldest synagogue in Tunisia and a destination for an annual pilgrimage for Jews from across North Africa and Europe.
At its height the Jewish community on Djerba numbered over 100,000, though nowadays estimates of the current population are around 1,300, still a significant community in an Arab land such as Tunisia. Despite the fact that the Djerba people as a whole have an enviable record of harmony and integration between Jews and Muslims, the pilgrimage has regrettably been the scene of violence and terrorist attacks on occasion – most notably in 2002 when an Al-Qaeda truck bomb killed 21 people, mostly German and French visitors. Tensions prevail: Tunisia has no diplomatic relationship with Israel, and Israeli nationals are currently barred from entry into the country.
Reportedly the synagogue has a plain exterior and is lavish within, though unfortunately we can’t provide any photos to show this, having visited on two successive days only to be told the place is ”closed till tomorrow”. Well, that’s now, for us, a tomorrow which will never come.
El Ghriba synagogue sits just outside the small island town of Erriadh, which is also home to something else, very different but perhaps equally remarkable: Djerbahood. Instigated from Paris in 2014, Djerbahood was a street art event in which artists from across the globe descended on the little town to create no less than 250 works of art.
Over 150 artists contributed, piecing together what we think is one of the most vibrant and exciting examples of public art we’ve seen anywhere in the world. Some of the original pieces are a little worn eight years on, but many have been restored and many new or replacement pieces added to this incredible display, making it an ever changing, always evolving collection.
Walking around Erriadh brings continual surprises and wow moments, not least because the traditional architecture provides the perfect backdrop for this remarkable metamorphic exhibition which features many representations of local life and local people and often incorporates the permanent architectural features of the building into the piece.
Enough words about it, browse some more for yourself:-
As we prepare to leave Djerba and bring down the curtain on this adventure, around us the season is starting. Closed cafes are opening, hotel car parks are filling, the beaches are being raked and cleaned and jet aeroplanes are coming in over the coast for the first time since we arrived. As if on cue, the temperature rises and the sun blazes just in time to scorch the newly arrived white bodies. Maybe the first normal season for three years is about to start.
One last word before we wind up this trip and head home. In previous posts (particularly Crete last year) we mentioned the legend of the lotus eaters, those who with Odysseus became stuck on an island, falling so much in love with the place that they lost the desire to return home. The island in that legend was Djerba.
Fitting perhaps that we should find ourselves here then, at the end of one journey and less than a month from starting the next one. Michaela and I may well have eaten our version of the lotus.
To end, here’s some more Djerbahood. Work through the slideshow to see more…..
25 Comments
normareadtalktalknet
Wow, incredible art, what a joy to see and be there 🙌
Andrew Petcher
Brilliant, a great gallery.
giacomoasinello
Gorgeous!
WanderingCanadians
Beautiful pictures. The street art looks wonderful. I can see why you’ve enjoyed your time in Djerba.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Outstanding photos!
Heyjude
Wow! Stunning artwork.
Annie Berger
Djerba looks divine with its fascinating history and vibrant murals. ALL of Michaela’s shots are beautiful but my favorite is one near the beginning with all the arches – just superb.
Hope you can rest up a bit before your return to California and that road trip which I hope you will also enjoy.
Phil & Michaela
Michaela liked that arch shot too… the changing architecture as we’ve made our way through Tunisia has been a constant fascination.
Alison
Absolutely incredible artwork. I could look for hours. I would go to Djerba just for the artwork..very interesting history you’ve written about Phil. Can’t believe your off again soon..did I miss where?
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – next up is a California road trip…very different from North Africa!
Alison
Sounds wonderful, a lot more civilised
Toonsarah
I already liked the look and sound of Djerba from your previous post, but now I’ve seen Djerbahood I really want to go! It sounds a bit like the Without Walls project we encountered in Gambia but on a much bigger scale and with a much greater variety (and higher quality perhaps) of street art. Just stunning!!
Phil & Michaela
Sarah, I have to say that you and Michaela’s Mum were the two people we thought of most as we wandered around Erriadh…we could picture you loving it. We haven’t accessed it, but I believe there is a virtual tour somewhere on the web if you wanted to find a further look. But in truth I doubt it’s as good as seeing in the flesh, not least because of the beautiful buildings which form the canvasses, so to speak. It was a very edifying last excursion of this adventure.
grandmisadventures
Such incredible street art everywhere! What a delightful visual tour of this beautiful city 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you !
Monkey's Tale
Incredible street art, and on interesting architecture really adds to it. Maggie
leightontravels
What a delightful little town to explore. The murals are fascinating and so vibrant, you gave us a wonderful tour of the town and its streets and architecture. Very interesting history about the Jewish high priest refugees at the beginning. Retirement is certainly treating you well, looking forward to your California articles.
Lookoom
I’m glad you found the lovely places in Djerba as it’s also the domain of the big all-inclusive club hotels, not really our kind of place.
Gilda Baxter
Stunning street art, a wonderful project. I know so little about Tunisia, it has been fascinating to follow your journey.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Gilda
Marielle
Lovely colorful murals against white backdrop.
Phil & Michaela
Yes they certainly were – thank you for calling in and for taking the time to comment.
Born To Travel
Love the street art. Cheers,Mark
wetanddustyroads
Lovely street art work – the colour against the white walls makes this truly beautiful. And look at that sunset … wow! The end? It feels just like the other day you arrived in Africa! But hey, can’t wait for your next adventure …
Phil & Michaela
Well it was 9 weeks in total…time flies!