In Deeper: To The Sacred City Of Kairouan
We feel quite a sense of anticipation as we make our way across the nondescript scrubland plain towards the city of Kairouan and step down from the minibus beneath greying afternoon skies. Indeed, there was a time when we couldn’t even have got as far as this: until being taken by the French in 1881, Kairouan was strictly Muslim only with all others barred from even entering the city.
It is today the fourth most sacred city of Islam after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem, tradition stating that seven pilgrimages to Kairouan equals one pilgrimage to Mecca. The Great Mosque of Kairouan (aka the Mosque Of Uqba) is widely accepted as being one of the largest and most impressive monuments in North Africa and one of the oldest places of worship in the Islamic world, whilst Kairouan itself, a UNESCO World Heritage site, has for centuries been a much revered centre for Quranic education.
A louage in Tunisia is the equivalent of a dolmus in Turkey and a collectivo in Mexico, a kind of shared minibus taxi which is always a good cheap alternative wherever they exist. Once we’ve made the train journey from Tunis to Kala Kabira it’s absolutely our intention to take a louage across to Kairouan, but in asking the way to the louage station we somehow end up negotiating a price with a gang of “ordinary taxi” drivers and soon find ourselves speeding across the plain.
By one of those unintentional quirks of timing we arrive in Kairouan on the very day of the festival of Qadr, one of the most important dates in the sacred month of Ramadan, commemorating the date when the Quran was first revealed to Mohamed. Exact dates vary, but in Tunisia it is celebrated on the 26th night of Ramadan, and Kairouan is on that night a particular focal point for the celebration with Muslims travelling here from across North Africa to join the festivities. And we’re here too!
The Grand Mosque presides over the city like a castle, sitting just outside the majestic 3.5-kilometre long city wall which encircles the old town and medina, close to the giant ancient kasbah which looks glorious but nowadays houses a 5-star hotel. As we stand gazing at the giant mosque and those proud city walls, there is a very real sense of being somewhere special.
If we had a notion that such a deeply religious location would be solemn and serious, then Kairouan wastes no time in ridding us of any such thought. Daytimes are calm and friendly with laughter commonplace and smiles as natural as in Thailand, then during the evenings Kairouan comes alive and the streets fill with teenagers, young adults and families enjoying life to the full.
We are regularly approached by locals eager to know where we are from; people slip easily into conversation despite the language barrier; when we stop to buy from a market stall, somebody always steps forward to help. It simply feels that everybody is friendly, everybody wants to help, nobody is on the make. When we are struggling with notes and coins, the stall-holder indicates for us to wait because there is more change due to us. Tunisia is definitely not Egypt, not even Morocco.
A starry eyed girl of about 18 strikes up a conversation in the square outside the mosque, in a mix of Arabic, French, English and Google translate, telling us that we would be beautiful parents and that she wants us to adopt her and take her to England. I am perfectly content to execute this plan but Michaela seems less than keen for some reason, which I really can’t quite understand.
Inside the medina, the lanes are still called souks but are more like street markets, wider and more open than most, and – guess what – you can browse the wares without being pestered to buy. Smaller mosques including the beautiful Mosque Of Three Doors are hidden among the lanes, and deep in the heart is Bir Barouta, a slightly weird 17th century well operated by an unfortunate camel destined to forever walk in tethered circles. As far as the well is concerned, we can only tell you this from research as the door was inexplicably locked each time we called by.
Outside of the medina, and away from the Great Mosque and the kasbah, a thriving city bustles and bounds with a verve and vitality which is contagious: there is something captivating about Kairouan and its people which is making us feel both content and welcome.
Across the ring road from our hotel are the Aghlabid Basins, which look a bit like pointless circular pools but are in fact cisterns built by the Aghlabide people in the 9th century to provide water for the city, holding a total of 68,800 cubic metres. The basins are no longer in use but were an impressive feat of early hydraulic engineering.
These are still strange times. Our hotel in Kairouan – we’re mostly opting for hotels on this trip now after the earlier airbnb horror – is eerily empty and we only catch occasional glimpses of any other guests. Staff busy themselves but always have time to talk, and when we return home at night, our key is out and waiting as if we are the only ones left to come home.
After two cloudy days the sun finally makes an appearance on Friday and the temperature, surprisingly low in the evenings so far, cranks up a little and the skies turn blue for the first time since Tunis. There is something about Kairouan, whether it’s the splendour of its towering mosque, the charm of its subtly illuminated city walls, the verve of its markets or the engaging character of its people, there is just something here which has really floated our boat. Even in Ramadan. Even on cloudy days. Even without beer.
Our time in Kairouan is not quite done but we have certainly taken to it in our time here. From here we start a bit more of a whirlwind tour, with our next stop on the Mediterranean coast where we are likely to reacquaint ourselves with our old friend alcohol. It’s been a while.
Footnote: Anybody remember the awful airbnb apartment in Aswan which we shunned as it was too dirty to stay? The outcome was…a full refund from airbnb, a voucher to the value of 10% of that stay and the apartment is now listed as “unavailable” leading us to wonder if the host was suspended as a result. An appropriate response by airbnb, we would say.
18 Comments
Terrie
Just my favorite art and patterns. Great attitude and photos.
Heyjude
More lovely doorways. A lot of your photos seem very devoid of people considering you say that you arrived on one of the most important dates in the sacred month of Ramadan. I see the Medina is much busier. Tunisia seems to suit you. Regrettably I have only spent one day in Tunis itself in torrential rain, looking for the correct railway station for our onward journey to Algiers, which happened to be the one closest to our hotel (after walking in the rain to the one furthest away).
Phil & Michaela
That sounds like a bad travel day! Qadr night was very lively and lots of folks around, but the rest of the pictures…well, the markets are busy pretty much all the time, the other tiny streets are pretty much residential areas so not so many people wandering around. Turn a corner into the souks and you realise where everybody is! It goes very quiet in the last hour or so before sundown too.
Toonsarah
This is fabulous! The architecture, the markets, the lack of hassle – sounds like a wonderful place to spend a few days! I’m starting to think we owe Tunisia a revisit. And what a good response to your complaint from airbnb 🙂
Phil & Michaela
The atmosphere walking through these streets is so good. Kairouan has real feelgood factor, Sarah. Lovely place, lovely people.
Latitude Adjustment, A tale of two travelers!
Fascinating. Great photos!
Alison
Loving these photos so much colour. Seems like such an interesting place to visit and the people sound so friendly.
Monkey's Tale
It sounds like you’ve fallen in love with Kairouan. It does look really nice. Now maybe I missed it but I did you get beer there? Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely not!
leightontravels
Looks like a lovely city: the architecture and all the colourful details are incredible, plus the people are pleasant. Your love for Kairouan really transpires through all the photos (gorgeous) and writing. Good to hear that airbnb resolved the issue so quickly and in your favour.
WanderingCanadians
Lovely pictures. I especially love all the blue around the windows, in the balconies and on the the doors. Talk about good timing to visit Kairouan the day of the festival of Qadr. Good to know that airbnb takes complaints seriously.
grandmisadventures
I love the buildings and the detailed beauty to them, especially the colorful domed rooftops. It reminds me of the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem.
Lookoom
I remember my day in Kairouan, it was hot, too hot, and the coolness of the mosque was an invitation to extend the visit. I was impressed by the cemetery at the foot of the high wall, as if nothing had changed for a very long time. Your photos of the medina capture the atmosphere well.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – it wasn’t so hot for our visit, and actually quite chilly in the evenings
wetanddustyroads
Wow, those rooftops of Kairouan – it’s beautiful! Ha, I had to giggle about the 18-year old … I’m with Michaela on this one. The street scenes are lovely … from your posts, I think I would definitely like Tunisia more than Egypt. That white house with the blue balcony – stunning!
Oh, and glad about the outcome of your disaster booking with airbnb – at least that’s positive!
Phil & Michaela
The big difference is the people: Tunisians are lovely. Egyptians…well…..aren’t!
Annie Berger
As others have said, the photos were simply gorgeous and the text matched them perfectly. I’d never heard that Kairouan was fifth most important city for Muslims. It looks like a place we’d also love to visit as we’ve really loved our time in several Middle Eastern countries and had hoped to visit more in mid-2020. Glad Airbnb came through for you after the horrible experience in Aswan. I’ve read they’ve recently upped their customer service after lots of complaints.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie