Tunis: Where Cultures Meet But Ramadan Rules
Tunis airport does its very best to compete with Delhi and Agadir as the most tortuous passport control we’ve ever experienced, and comes very close indeed to being the most chaotic. Having left Camp Sunshine at half past midnight to take flights through the night and early morning (Hurghada-Cairo-Tunis) such scenes weren’t exactly top of our wish list.
With minimal airport staff to control the crowds, chaos quickly breaks out and any semblance of a queue soon dissolves into a free for all where disorder rules and tempers fray. In the end it’s only a few minutes short of two hours before we’re finally reunited with our backpacks, during which time a pre-recorded public announcement has repeatedly and laughably reminded the heaving human mass that social distancing rules should be observed.
One of the first things that strikes us on our initial wander around the centre of the city is the unmissable clash of Arabic and French. Patisseries and baguettes sit comfortably with Berber clothing and the smell of incense, but the bigger clue is in the street names which carry individual mixes: Rue de la Kasbah, Souk des Femmes, Boulevard Bab Menara.
The exciting medina, the old walled city in the centre of Tunis, is packed with souks and tiny twisting alleys and is an enormously stimulating place to walk through, the history of centuries tapping us on the shoulder as we lose ourselves in its maze. This is not, for the most part anyway, a tourist trap, but is still the thriving, bustling merchant town that it always was, many of the streets individually dedicated to specific trades – here the gold merchants, there the women’s clothing shops, next leather goods, followed by hookah street, then pots and pans.
French is heard marginally more than Arabic within the medina, and, unlike so many other souk areas, there is absolutely no pestering, no hassling, just the occasional friendly “bonjour” as we pass the shopkeepers doing what their families have done for generations, selling essentials to locals rather than fleecing tourists. What a wonderfully absorbing place through which to wander.
It feels as authentic as any medina or bazaar we have visited anywhere, exciting yet calm, full of action but not chaotic. Then, passing through the medina and out of the ancient city gate of Bab El Bhar, we are transported in an instant from North Africa to a French city: as we emerge from those time honoured souks we find ourselves in a wide tree-lined boulevard flanked with shops and cafes which are archetypically Parisienne. Except that, reminding us we are still in Ramadan, those cafes are shuttered and their tables and chairs stacked, even in this “Ville Nouvelle” section of Tunis.
It almost feels incongruous that such a European looking district should be in the jaws of fasting – and then we start to realise that some, hidden behind blanked out windows and closed doors, are quietly servicing those customers who choose not to observe Ramadan. Tentatively, we open the door of one such, Cafe Bonapart (no “e”), and to our delight we have stepped not just into Paris, but into 1970s France, finding ourselves in a smoke-filled cramped coffee bar packed with guys sipping strong coffee and reading newspapers whilst smoking the cigarettes which you can, amusingly, buy one at a time from the smiling owner.
Our base in Tunis is hidden inside the ancient medina in a beautiful old “Dar” with a castle-like interior featuring extensive ornate tiling and magnificent ceilings. It’s a stunning building beautifully renovated and a haven of peace in the style of a Moroccan riad or Indian haveli.
As well as our own Dar, the tight alleys of the medina conceal a large number of beautiful and historic buildings. Dominated by the imposing Zaytuna mosque, the medina hides old palaces, ancient Dar dwellings of the wealthy, numerous other mosques and several medersas (Quranic schools). The whole area absolutely oozes history and ambience. It’s simply wonderful and fabulously atmospheric. It’s also extremely confusing and it’s not long before we give up trying to navigate and instead just wander around different corners until Zaytuna reappears and we regain our bearings.
Yet this wonderful medina still has more to offer over and above the souks and the landmark buildings. This is a genuine old city, its boundaries still easily determinable despite the walls being long gone, almost an island city within the greater metropolis of modern Tunis. Within its boundaries but outside of the souks, multiple tiny lanes wind around compact houses, gorgeous properties sit shoulder to shoulder in cramped yet peaceful lanes. Fifteen per cent of the population of Tunis still live in this tiny circle, a fact which is hard to believe until you wander these cobbled streets and marvel at what you see.
How about some unfamiliar food words. Bssissa, Lban, Chorba Tel Molk, Brik, Mechouia, Houreya, Koucha Allouche and Kammounia have all featured in our food and drink in the first three days here, as on each evening we have indulged in “iftar”. Iftar is the traditional meal taken at sunset during Ramadan to mark the end of that day’s fasting, and features first a large number of small dishes delivered mezze style, followed by the main meat or fish dish, all accompanied by both water and other nutritional (and unusual) drinks.
Taking iftar is an experience all on its own. Forget having choice, forget the concept of menu, forget having a leisurely meal. Within a few short minutes of taking our seat, the dishes start to arrive, usually six courses, most of them delivered simultaneously. No ceremony, no time wasted, everybody being served the same array of dishes. Within a short space of time it’s over, the tables are being wiped and put away and everyone’s moving round to a salon de thė. When your clients haven’t eaten for fifteen hours, nobody wants to hang around.
The meals are incredibly tasty and thoroughly delicious – harissa features heavily and spices and herbs are used liberally, all creating an explosion of flavours which delight the taste buds. It’s a world away from the bland fayre of Egypt.
Talking of Ramadan, there is a repeat here of something we first saw back in Luxor in the early days of the festival. As sunset approaches, this lively city falls utterly silent: pathways empty, traffic vanishes and the city becomes almost as deserted as lockdown, rather like Spanish towns used to be during the siesta. Even the trams stop. But two hours later, everything is buzzing and the city is once again full of life. Everything is alive after dark and even at 10pm shops are reopening their doors and punters are flooding in. Clearly the iftar is family time, home time.
There is a downside to visiting Tunis during Ramadan, though we realise of course that this is purely a selfish angle. With its French influenced cafe culture, gorgeous inviting cafes at every turn, it’s more than a bit frustrating to see them all closed and out of bounds and we feel that we’re missing out on something which is a big part of life here at other times of the year. It also makes a day walking around a city just that bit harder when there is no opportunity to take time out at a table for half an hour.
Nowhere is this more telling than at Place El Halfouine, a sumptuous leafy square nestled beneath proud old buildings, splendid oh so French cafes strung all around, tables which would normally fill the centre stacked idly in the shade. The square itself is accessed from one of the city gates – Bab Souika – along a tight bustling alley crammed with farmers’ stalls. Amazing scents of fresh produce fill the air, trapped by the tight walls and lofty buildings, mint, fennel, cinnamon, oranges and others taking turns to tease our senses.
Once iftar is over, those Parisienne style cafes, silent all day, unstack the tables and chairs and become convivial sites full of chatter, and more cafes appear in the souks where all day there has only been an unmarked closed door. It’s fascinating to witness.
Despite that “missing out” element – and we stress again that it’s just a personal selfish view so of no real relevance – we already feel welcomed and excited by this city with its differing cultures and diverse influences. Tunis airport may not have impressed us, but Tunis the city has in our first few days done its best to win us over, and is without doubt succeeding.
31 Comments
normareadtalktalknet
Fantastic and fascinating .. you’ve taken us there with you, mesmerised us and are right back experiencing the reason and the passion you have for this type of travel .. 🙌
Annie Berger
Great introduction to Tunis, a city I knew nothing about before reading your captivating post. Looking forward to traveling more through Tunisia vicariously.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Norma – it’s certainly interesting being here in Ramadan
Toonsarah
Tunis looks wonderful! I confess we only had an hour or so there as part of a day tour from our own mini version of Camp Sunshine in Hammamet, back in the day when going to Tunisia at all seemed very adventurous to us! I remember wide boulevards and my first sight of jacaranda trees, but we were mainly there to see the museum and its objects from Carthage which was the main focus of the tour. Now I can see that we would enjoy a stay in the city. It sounds like a low-key, more relaxed version of Marrakesh in some ways, with the medina and souk surrounded by the newer French-influenced area? Your accommodation looks fabulous by the way – if ever we go to Tunis I’ll be messaging you for details!
Phil & Michaela
Yes, in a way, although it’s difficult to compare with Marrakech whilst we’re here during Ramadan. And yes it’s much more French and nowhere near as intense. Definitely worth a visit.
Phil & Michaela
Oh and you wouldn’t believe the price of this room! Definitely not splurge territory despite how grand it is!
Monkey's Tale
Well this sounds amazing and a place I’d love to visit. I think youbhad me at the lack of hassle at the souks, and it continued with the French architecture mixed with the Tunisian. Sounds wonderful. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Thanks Maggie
Andrew Petcher
Great pictures, but North Africa is really not for me.
Phil & Michaela
Not sure if you read all the text Andrew but it’s nowhere near as intense as other North African cities we’ve visited. A much calmer culture and significantly more welcoming and friendly.
Terrie
I love that you’re enjoyine the food what a great description! we’d liked the roads in morocco as well
I’m so happy we are both so happy that you were out of Egypt- get ready to enjoy Tunisia.’ we are at Deux Magots in Paris getting ready for a concert later on tonight.
We really roughing it we all had standing room pick pocket range in the train tonight and so thought of you and send hugs.
Phil & Michaela
Enjoy the concert!
wetanddustyroads
I almost feel a calmness in your post compared to your previous ones in Egypt (well, if you forget the paragraph about the airport in Tunis). Lovely street views in The Medina … and wow, how beautiful is your room’s ceiling!
And yes, your food certainly looks delicious (and unfamiliar at the same time). Beautiful photo from your rooftop 👍🏻.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you…yes we’re liking Tunis. Feel quite happy here and looking forward to seeing different sides of Tunisia.
Gilda Baxter
Fascinating place and definitely one for the travel wish list. Your post has taken me there, so beautifully written as always. Your photos are also gorgeous. Your accommodation looks absolutely fabulous and sounds like the location is also perfect?
Michaela, it sounds like your French language skills are going to be needed 😀
Phil & Michaela
Hi Gilda, thank you. It is indeed a perfect location and is certainly not expensive by UK standards. We’re definitely enjoying this city.
Alison
Sounds so much better than Egypt. It’s a place my husband has always wanted to visit. The airport chaos has already put me off! Your room does look so sumptuous. It’s interesting how you describe the mix of French and Arabic, similar to how I felt about Laos, with the mix of French and Asian.
Looks like there is so much for you to explore
Phil & Michaela
Yes, you’re right – Luang Prabang had obvious French connections. Probably even more accentuated here given the size of the colonial part of the city
Alison
I didn’t realise that Tunisia was so French either. Always learning something new from these blogs
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Ali – yes it’s a real mix
leightontravels
Tunis seems to be oozing peace and quiet at every corner. Much more so than Egypt. The mix of two languages in street names is fascinating. I can’t get over the photos of your glittery luxurious digs – what a place to return to after sightseeing. Though there’s an element of missing out, and I totally get that, there’s also an added dimension to your experience of the culture, city and food due to the Ramadan celebration. I am glad to hear that you are enjoying the more flavoursome meals, less intrusive souk merchants and some Parisian cafe ambiance.
Phil & Michaela
Yes you’re right – missing out yes but having a “different” experience is stimulating and of course is why we travel in the first place.
Forestwood
I have never considered travelling to an Arabic or Middle Eastern city as I travel solo, but your pictures of the area are so very tempting. As other people have commented, what an amazing bedroom. As a lover of mosaic patterns, I doubt if I would leave the room so mesmerized would I be by the patterns. I found it interesting that the view outside the window is quite plain (apart from the tower) but the alleys are full of abundant life, and colour! Amazing place. So pleased you were able to share it with us.
Phil & Michaela
Funnily enough, when we showed the view from the roof, the guy said “this is Tunis. This is typical, and is how Tunisians like it: all one colour”.
Forestwood
Wow! Funny!
Lookoom
You often refer to the French influence, I also felt it, knowing that there are also many French visitors in Tunisia, at least when I was there. By chance, I even bumped into a former short time colleague from Paris, who had become a waiter. Apparently he made a better living that way, but he missed Paris.
Phil & Michaela
That’s surprising, you wouldn’t guess that the standard of living would be high here
rkrontheroad
Wonderful evocative photos of the medina, souk and markets. Great places to wander.
grandmisadventures
what an interesting and wonderful mix of cultures! Really enjoyed following along those streets with you!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you!