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Hallelujahs In Alajuela 

February 1, 2022 /

Including a break for lunch it takes about five hours to drive across country from the coast to Alajuela – it’s good advice when travelling Costa Rica’s roads to allow plenty of extra time, these roads are slow and there are regular delays. Alajuela, the country’s second city yet within easy reach of the capital, is our last port of call here, mostly for convenience as we are now close to both the airport and the COVID testing facility which is needed for entry in to the USA. Along with a fair pile of paperwork.

Cathedral Square, Alajuela

A wander around Alajuela city centre takes in the cathedral, the adjoining green square and Plaza Juan Santamaria, named after the local hero who fought off the insurgent William Walker in the Filibuster War in the 1850s. Walker, leader of a mercenary army acting on instruction of the American president, was seeking to take control of most of Central America with the intention of absorbing the whole region into the USA. After a successful attack on Nicaragua, opposition led by Santamaria forced a withdrawal, so protecting Costa Rica’s sovereignty. A son of Alajuela, he remains a national hero to this day.

Juan Santamaria

There is much activity in and around the two squares on this hot Sunday afternoon, with music much in evidence virtually everywhere. Alajuela feels pleasingly lively. 

Rick’s Bar, close to our hotel, is one such place, music spilling out into the street even in the afternoon, so after dark we start our evening here, after waiting to be let in through the chained entrance as is not uncommon in Costa Rica bars. We are half way down our first beer when she walks in – tall and elegant and dressed in tartan mini dress and thigh length boots, her flamboyant walk almost a strut as she turns heads throughout the bar. You can’t miss her, so showy is her catwalk style arrival.

Rick’s Bar
Rick’s Bar

She greets everyone, she is clearly well known, obviously a Rick’s regular. As she returns from the bar to her table, I catch her eye, and only at that point do we realise that we shouldn’t be referring to him as “she”. Over the next half hour or so the atmosphere grows like a rock gig right before the band takes the stage, with so many outrageous outfits coming in through the door that we feel as if we’ve drifted into the set of Frankie Goes To Hollywood’s “Relax” video.

Googling later, we find that Rick’s describes itself as a “gay and lesbian bar which is also straight friendly”. It’s brilliant. We already know that Costa Rica is liberal and inclusive but it’s huge fun to see such freedom and a privilege to be part of it. 

Dome of Alajuela Cathedral
Alajuela Cathedral

Behind the green square which remains full of life both human and avian throughout our stay, sits the cathedral, notable mostly for its slightly weird dome with its strangely dull exterior of corrugated sheeting which is transformed into something special when viewed from inside. The startlingly yellow stained glass windows of floral design capture the sunlight and cast golden hues onto the icons below – quite a stunning visual effect.

Inside the dome, Alajuela Cathedral

By Monday our focus is on the COVID test, and we have to admit that nerves start to jangle as we make our way to the appointed place. Then it’s all over in an unceremonious flash, negative results received within twenty minutes of testing followed by successful online check-in. It’s down to paperwork now, after which I will, all being well, be seeing my daughter for the first time in over four years, hence the hallelujahs in Alajuela!

“Jalapeños Central” A great Mexican restaurant, Alajuela

As our time in this wonderful country comes to a close after seven weeks, we indulge in one last Costa Rican obsession, cafe chorreado, the slightly odd at-table filtering system being a regular sight in city cafes. 

Cafe chorreado

One last beer at Rick’s? Closed Monday and Tuesday. Just think, we could have missed that whole experience simply through accident of timing. We seem to get lucky quite often.

Alajuela
Alajuela

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