Wintry Days In Vilnius
The temperature touches minus 7 as we head back to the hotel after our evening meal, frost forming fern patterns on car windscreens and turning pavement puddles into treacherous mini skating rinks. But the air is clean and crisp, the moon is bright and we breathe in the tastes of proper winter for the first time in a long time.
By first light next morning the snow is falling and the cobbled streets have a covering of pure white as workers shuffle to offices and factories, huddled inside heavy overcoats and hidden behind hats and scarves. For us this is a bonus: we hadn’t expected to see snow this early in the year, and as we take our first Lithuanian breakfast we chatter like excited kids at the prospect of exploring Vilnius in a wintry scene.
Enjoying the snow 
Its cold out here
Our arrival the previous lunchtime, after an overnight stay at Luton Airport and a pre-dawn flight, had seen bright crisp sunshine to accompany our first impressions of this city of cobbled streets and baroque spires. Vilnius is a city steeped in history but defined by recent times.
Lithuania was arguably the most rebellious of the occupied states of the Soviet Union and fittingly the first to declare independence as the USSR broke apart in the late 1980s. This city saw the concept and start point of one of the most singularly powerful human statements of all time: the Baltic Way. As the three Baltic states of Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia strove to break away, an incredible human chain of 2 million people was formed, holding hands and connecting the three capital cities in a show of love, strength and independence which, amazingly, stretched unbroken for 650 kilometres.
Evocative photographs and stories of this moving piece of history adorn the walls inside the Gediminas Tower, site of the start of the chain and the spot where the Lithuanian flag was first raised when independence from Moscow was declared. There is a strong feeling here, as in the rest of the Baltic region, that the three states were badly let down, and subsequently ignored, by the rest of the World, when they were submitted to Soviet rule as Europe realigned after WW2.
Yet our first impressions are that there is a difference here: in Estonia, there was an air of sadness for a nation’s lost identity, whereas here, in this modernised, vibrant city, there is a sense of buoyant independence after decades of oppression. It feels as if the celebration is still as joyous now as it was thirty years ago.
Both Gedimino Street and Vilniaus Street house the shops of Western retailers and restaurants of international cuisine, but the cobbled streets of the expansive old city proudly promote Lithuanian culture, traditions and food. The combined effect is one which feels like Vilnius is still sticking up two fingers in the direction of Moscow. With glee.
The snowfall brings a thoroughly seasonal look to the city’s parks and buildings, arriving just as the Christmas trees are put into place and the lofty white and silver Christmas monument is erected in Cathedral Square. It also adds a certain poignancy to the day’s military display in the same square: it turns out that today, November 23rd, is Lithuania Armed Forces Day, celebrating that particular element of regaining independence.
Gediminas Tower sits atop one of two hills rising above this otherwise flat city – the other is topped by The Three Crosses, a further symbol of independence and one which, like many others in these parts, has been demolished and rebuilt each time Russian or Soviet occupation came and went. There now exists a strong belief that, this time, this city icon is here to stay.
Gediminas Tower 
Hill of Three Crosses
Darkness falls early here and the days are short, approximately seven hours separating sunrise and nightfall, the stillness of the cold air bringing a quietness to the city which is enhanced rather than broken by the ripple of winter tyres of slow moving traffic on cobbled thoroughfares.
COVID protocols are strictly enforced: if we didn’t have vaccination passes on our phones, we wouldn’t get a meal, let alone a bed for the night. Entrance to each and every building is forbidden without that pass, an uncharacteristic constriction in this otherwise liberated city.
20 Comments
leightontravels
A riveting read on a city and country I know little about. So glad that you get to experience Vilnius in this cosy setting. Wonderful photography, the churches and cathedral look wonderful and to witness the Armed Forces day celebration must have been something. Love the shot of military personnel holding their bouquets.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Leighton, yes we were lucky with the timing of the snowfall
grandmisadventures
What a beautiful city! Especially in the snow it just looks so much like a christmas card. 🙂
Heyjude
Beautiful photos. You must surely be feeling the cold though after your Greek odyssey!
Phil & Michaela
Yes we certainly are. Dives into coffee shops is the way forward!
Heyjude
😂
Lookoom
When I visited the old town, it was being renovated, even the tower was closed and surrounded by a large construction site. Everything seems to be in place now to fully appreciate the city.
Phil & Michaela
That’s a great shame, because it’s very picturesque
Monkey's Tale
Lithuania has never really been on my radar but Richard grew up in neighbouring Poland has wanted us to go. Interesting history and it looks like Vilnius is a good city with lots to see. Can’t wait for the rest! Maggie
Phil & Michaela
All three of the Baltic countries are definitely worth a visit Maggie
wetanddustyroads
Wow, what a change of scenery after your recent visit of the Greek islands! Although it looks bitterly cold, the pictures of the ground and buildings covered in snow looks beautiful. I’m looking forward to hear and see more of your visit here!
Phil & Michaela
It’s definitely a big change from Greece, that’s for sure!
WanderingCanadians
The city looks beautiful covered in a light blanket of snow. Stay warm out there.
Toonsarah
I’m not a big fan of snow but I have to admit it makes the city look very pretty! Having been to Riga and Tallinn but not here, I’m very interested to read your perceptions about the differences between them. I have to say that I didn’t feel in Tallinn that there was any residual sadness about the Soviet occupation. I found a moving monument to and account of the Baltic Way at the TV tower, which also has a great story to tell about the occupation of the tower by Estonian nationalists as the Iron Curtain collapsed. And in the city centre there was a real sense of Estonian culture and identity, especially during the festivals I witnessed on both visits – Old Town Days and the Medieval Fair. Maybe I missed something that you observed?
Phil & Michaela
Well yes it was very evident in our visit Sarah – the incredibly moving Museum Of Occupations told in great detail the stories of how Moscow sought to dilute Estonian culture by forcibly migrating tens of thousands of Muscovites to Tallinn, with equal numbers moving the opposite way, with dissidents being imprisoned in Siberia. Nearly 30% of the population is Russian even today. People we met (including guides, funnily enough) told us how the Russian element in Tallinn still live in an effective enclave and don’t mix with the locals. At the time of our visit, there was a big campaign to remove Russian translations from restaurant menus. But it was the museum that told the clearest story – though it wasn’t hard to find people willing to discuss the disservice done to the Baltic states.
Toonsarah
I have to confess I didn’t visit that museum on either visit – maybe I should have done. But my local friend didn’t really refer to any issues. I do remember her saying that in Estonia they feel closer to Finland (emotionally and culturally) than to the other Baltic States. I don’t remember noticing Russian on the menus – it may have been there but nothing was said to draw my attention to it. When were you there? My visits were in 2014 and 2015.
Phil & Michaela
Errr….urmmmm…it was February 2015….so pretty much the same time!
Andrew Petcher
Lovely, I once spent a weekend in Riga with similar weather.
rkrontheroad
A wintry study in a black and white landscape. I didn’t know about the Baltic Way chain, thanks for that bit of history.
Annie Berger
We visited in the early fall so appreciated seeing seeing the city in winter, especially at a distance! Also liked the Armed Forces Day photos.