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Paros In Perspective

Our conclusion after spending a few days on Paros and touring most of the island via hire car is that we probably chose the wrong place to stay. Exquisitely picturesque as it is, the truth is that there are some lovely little corners of this island away from the fat prices of fine dining restaurants and Gucci stockists of well heeled Naoussa and away from the quasi-city buzz of port town Parikia.

The old Kafeneon in Lefkes

Tucked away elsewhere are the beautiful hilltop villages of Lefkes (yes a tourist trap but wonderfully quaint) and Kostos (much more still a locals’ village), but take a drive around the coastline and you unearth some seaside getaways of near perfection. Piso Livadi is a gorgeous enclosed harbour with a smart little town and long sandy beach, Alyki is a more open bay and harbour but is equally attractive. Both have a fishing fleet bringing fresh catch to the tavernas, and in both places the calmness of the protected sea seems to feed the same tranquility into the village itself.

Kostos

If ever we were to return to Paros, our feeling is that we would stay in Alyki rather than the larger towns. Further around the coast are numerous sandy beaches, most notably the so called Golden Beach at Crissi Akti.

Alyki

In the middle of the island stand the extensive remains of ancient marble quarries. Parian marble was for long periods a sought after commodity used by numerous Greek sculptors and thought to have been the source material for the Venus de Milo. As we walk around the half collapsed quarry buildings, we can still see the unmistakable patterns of marble in the hillside around the edges of the excavated areas.

The ancient marble quarry ……..

The marble is no longer quarried or mined in any great quantity but it is still possible to buy figurines and ornaments sourced and carved locally. Paros is also famous for its quality wines, and while we may not be able to vouch for the quality of the marble, we sure as hell can for the wine!

Paros countryside

Tucked away towards the centre of the island is a trail through a valley renowned for its dense butterfly population. After tracking it down by driving dirt tracks and preparing for an interesting trek, we are confronted by barbed wire and a locked gate bearing the notice “Closed: End Of Season”, despite all other information telling us it’s open. 

Arriving in Antiparos

For our final day here we take a couple of buses and then leave the island via a quirky car ferry over to the sister island of Antiparos, which unsurprisingly feels very similar to Paros, where we finally get to sample a Paros delicacy: sun dried mackerel, known locally as Gouna. 

Venetian castle, Naoussa, Paros

As we prepare to leave Paros we reflect on our time here which has left us with mixed opinions. Naoussa seems to be the hub of the up market trend, but the influence of that trend is unmissable throughout the island and at even at Alyki at the bottom of the island, the bar is raised commensurately. 

Naoussa harbour
Naoussa harbour

Of course, we have enjoyed some fabulous meals at Naoussa’s pricey restaurants, and also managed to unearth a couple of good quality but more down-to-earth eateries, but generally Paros is an island where there is no “barrel wine” on the menus and shops selling expensive designer clothing outnumber those selling local produce by about ten to one.

Paros is a beautiful island and a perfect destination for the higher budget traveller, but after our time on the Lesser Cyclades islands, being on Paros feels like being outside of Greece. We’re expecting a return to the more customary feel of a Greek island as we move on to our next destination Sifnos.

Naoussa harbour

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