Paros In Perspective
Our conclusion after spending a few days on Paros and touring most of the island via hire car is that we probably chose the wrong place to stay. Exquisitely picturesque as it is, the truth is that there are some lovely little corners of this island away from the fat prices of fine dining restaurants and Gucci stockists of well heeled Naoussa and away from the quasi-city buzz of port town Parikia.
Tucked away elsewhere are the beautiful hilltop villages of Lefkes (yes a tourist trap but wonderfully quaint) and Kostos (much more still a locals’ village), but take a drive around the coastline and you unearth some seaside getaways of near perfection. Piso Livadi is a gorgeous enclosed harbour with a smart little town and long sandy beach, Alyki is a more open bay and harbour but is equally attractive. Both have a fishing fleet bringing fresh catch to the tavernas, and in both places the calmness of the protected sea seems to feed the same tranquility into the village itself.
If ever we were to return to Paros, our feeling is that we would stay in Alyki rather than the larger towns. Further around the coast are numerous sandy beaches, most notably the so called Golden Beach at Crissi Akti.
In the middle of the island stand the extensive remains of ancient marble quarries. Parian marble was for long periods a sought after commodity used by numerous Greek sculptors and thought to have been the source material for the Venus de Milo. As we walk around the half collapsed quarry buildings, we can still see the unmistakable patterns of marble in the hillside around the edges of the excavated areas.
The ancient marble quarry ……..
The marble is no longer quarried or mined in any great quantity but it is still possible to buy figurines and ornaments sourced and carved locally. Paros is also famous for its quality wines, and while we may not be able to vouch for the quality of the marble, we sure as hell can for the wine!
Tucked away towards the centre of the island is a trail through a valley renowned for its dense butterfly population. After tracking it down by driving dirt tracks and preparing for an interesting trek, we are confronted by barbed wire and a locked gate bearing the notice “Closed: End Of Season”, despite all other information telling us it’s open.
For our final day here we take a couple of buses and then leave the island via a quirky car ferry over to the sister island of Antiparos, which unsurprisingly feels very similar to Paros, where we finally get to sample a Paros delicacy: sun dried mackerel, known locally as Gouna.
From Castle, Naoussa
As we prepare to leave Paros we reflect on our time here which has left us with mixed opinions. Naoussa seems to be the hub of the up market trend, but the influence of that trend is unmissable throughout the island and at even at Alyki at the bottom of the island, the bar is raised commensurately.
Of course, we have enjoyed some fabulous meals at Naoussa’s pricey restaurants, and also managed to unearth a couple of good quality but more down-to-earth eateries, but generally Paros is an island where there is no “barrel wine” on the menus and shops selling expensive designer clothing outnumber those selling local produce by about ten to one.
Streets of Naoussa
Paros is a beautiful island and a perfect destination for the higher budget traveller, but after our time on the Lesser Cyclades islands, being on Paros feels like being outside of Greece. We’re expecting a return to the more customary feel of a Greek island as we move on to our next destination Sifnos.
25 Comments
normareadtalktalknet
As always wonderfully informative 👍😍
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Norma xx
Alison
At least you got to see what you liked for next time. This is a very long trip you’re taking!
Phil & Michaela
Yes it’s now officially our longest ever. We are into Week 11 now…but the flight home is looming closer…October 10th…
Alison
I think the best weather will be over by then
Phil & Michaela
Quite possibly – so we’re making the most of each day, it’s still lovely weather for now, with only 12 days left.
wetanddustyroads
Wow, you have some beautiful photo’s on this post! Love that one of Kostos 😊.
Toonsarah
There are clearly some very beautiful places on Paros, but it seems that comes at a price! And after all, you have found beautiful places on ALL the islands you have visited. Why is it that Paros has been discovered by this upmarket crowd but the other islands not so much? Is it down to accessibility, or some other factor that draws them here?
Phil & Michaela
We really don’t know the answer to that, Sarah. Each island seems to have targeted a different market: Paros seems to have ensnared French haute couture and Italian style in its client base. Even the locals seem a lot more wealthy than on other islands.
Gilda Baxter
Another beautiful and informative post. Sounds like Paros has become quite touristic and expensive, although you have uncovered areas that would be less so. You are really getting to know these islands quite well.
Phil & Michaela
Hi Gilda, hope your trek and experience are going well. Yes we feel we now have a lot of experience of these islands.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Very interesting and informative post. You folks are doing it right by slow going and inter island ferries. We plan to follow in your footsteps.
Enjoy every moment.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you guys, your comments are always appreciated!
Lookoom
The photos are beautiful and make me dream, so at least we know where to go to buy Gucci stuff.
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha yes!
Jyothi
What a great tour Michaela and Phil! As always beautiful captures!!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you
grandmisadventures
another beautiful assortment of pictures of such a beautiful place that makes me wistfully want to grab my passport and go right now 🙂
leightontravels
Well, the occasional accommodation misstep is to be expected during such a long trip. I also find it curious how this particular beautiful place finds itself ensnared in such a scene when other similarly gorgeous towns and villages lie largely ignored. Another great post guys.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks mate, yes it was like slipping out of Greece and on to the Champs Elysees for a bit!
Joe
Naoussa looks beautiful, but Piso Livadi and Alyki also seem like lovely, authentic, less expensive and more casual options. Thanks for doing the leg work and for sharing your perspective of Paros.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks for commenting Joe – much appreciated as always
rkrontheroad
You are tasting so many islands, some have to please more than others. The photos are beautiful, but sounds a bit pricey.
Phil & Michaela
Yes that’s undoubtedly true, especially as there are very definite differences in character between the islands.
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