Cornwall: One Last Wild Walk
Although we are regular visitors to Cornwall, this has been a different kind of visit from normal, in several good ways. Our visits are by necessity normally fleeting and out of season, so to have spent 25 days here across two visits over the last few weeks has been a joy. Because our time here is normally brief, we ordinarily restrict ourselves to time around the Camel Estuary, so to have had the time and opportunity to rediscover more of Cornwall has been brilliant.
Our last day here arrives accompanied by an amber weather warning for strong winds, and sure enough the cottage is being battered and is creaking like an old sailing ship as we make coffee and breakfast. But it’s our last day here so we know we have to take on the elements with one last walk.
Arriving at Carnewas, the first real inkling of just how bad it is comes when Michaela can’t actually open the car door. The second clue is that putting on her waterproof coat involves something akin to taking on a heavyweight boxer whilst bending double and hopping on one leg.
We’re not sure that words will convey just what the wind was like on the coast path, but this short video clip (turn up the volume!) will give you an idea. I’ll have a go with some words too…
At different times we both get blown over, literally. Gusts hit us face on and stop us in our tracks, unable to walk on. We can’t hear each other speak even from inches away. We can lean into the wind at a daft angle and not fall over. Birds either pass by at breakneck speed or fly backwards. A peregrine falcon passes by and tucks in its wings to form a perfectly streamlined body racing missile like through the air.
To our left the Atlantic rages. We have commented before on its many moods, well today is an Atlantic temper tantrum as waves crash, seas rage and swirl, surf blows high into the air as water pounds rock. Surf turns to foam which blows up and over even the highest cliffs. It is utterly spectacular, yet the wind is so powerful that we can’t hear the sea crashing below; the wind is literally all we can hear.
Over the last few days we have discovered the iWalk Cornwall app, which, it turns out today, is absolutely excellent and so clever as to leave us thoroughly impressed. The well designed walk follows the coast path from Carnewas to Porthcothan, from where we veer inwards to pick up footpaths across agricultural land. Just before Porthcothan, we drop down into the cove near Park Head, and for the first time in an hour, there is shelter from the wind, and the heady sweet scent of bluebells fills the air.
Fields of cereal crop and even daffodils are edged by dry stone walling, some with that delightful herringbone stone pattern unique to Cornwall. Wooden footbridges cross babbling brooks, one ancient stone arch bridge nestles in the bottom of a green valley. Eventually we emerge back on to high level, the angry Atlantic now ahead of us, and once again we are battling the strongest of the wind as the Carnewas car park, and the end of the 6-mile-plus walk, comes in sight.
By instalments over several visits we have now walked all of the section of the coast path between Port Gaverne and Bedruthan, and each time we walk some of it, I find myself dreaming of walking its entire 500 mile+ length. I have previously walked the Wealdway, the Sussex Border Path, and the Chianti Hills from Siena to Florence. And now the South West Coast Path is calling.
I mention it to Michaela. She turns to me, bracing herself against the gale with one eye on the squall at sea which is threatening to drench us any minute.
“Or perhaps”, she shouts above the howling of the wind, “we could spend the whole summer sipping cold beer in the Mediterranean sun”.
Discussion over, I fear!
LAST WORD ON PADSTOW
We should of course finish by mentioning our second home, Padstow, which in our final week is, like everywhere else, reopening its doors as COVID restrictions continue to lift. Food wise, the bar is, as ever, raised in Padstow, a knock on from the Rick Stein effect. Prices tend to be similarly raised. The Old Ship, The Old Custom House, The Shipwrights and Pucelli’s have all delivered great food and seem to be adapting to the “new normal” sensibly.
After the windswept walk today, we conclude this two week trip by meeting up again with our friends and fellow travel bloggers Gilda and Brian, together with their lovely daughter Chloe. Over dinner at The Custom House we spend a splendid evening getting to know each other “for real” and of course trading stories from our mutual travels. It’s definitely time we all got travelling again.
Padstow, and the Camel Estuary, continue to hold a big place in our hearts and is as naturally beautiful as ever. This has been a great fortnight; we really don’t think we will ever tire of coming here.
18 Comments
Gilda Baxter
Phil and Michaela, you guys are brave venturing out on such a windy and wet day, but it has certainly paid off. Nature always provides the best entertainment.
It has been an absolute pleasure to spend time with you both in lovely Padstow. Thank you so much for booking a great place for our dinner together and I am sure our paths will cross again in the future.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Gilda, it was lovely spending time with you and Brian and great to meet Chloe too. It was fabulous to get to know you and swap travel stories and ideas, lets hope we can all follow our travel dreams in the not too distant future. and yes, we are sure our paths will cross again somewhere in the world.
wetanddustyroads
Goodness … that wind!! But I’m telling you – I would rather be up on that hill than down on a boat on that roaring ocean 😳.
What about a compromise: Maybe a long hike somewhere in the Mediterranean where you can have beers after each day’s walk …
Phil & Michaela
Yes, good compromise, we are planning the Mediterranean in July/August just letting the travel issues settle a bit first and then hopefully we will be off to the sun 🌞
Toonsarah
As always I’m enraptured by the dramatic Atlantic photos and the short video certainly goes some way to showing the power of the wind that day!! You’ve done a great job of selling Cornwall in general and Padstow in particular 🙂 And how wonderful to meet up with a fellow blogger and share travel stories! Just what I love to do, in normal times, with my Virtual Tourist friends. But soon, I hope …
Linda K
Love coast views…even while being battered by the wind! Aren’t you both brave to get out in that. The photo of the boats in the harbour at twilight is beautiful! The reflection and colours are stunning. Will have to get back to that area myself one day on a visit over there.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Linda. It was certainly was an invigorating walk. Harbours at twilight are very atmospheric, we hope you get to visit this wonderful region again.😊
carolinehelbig
So beautiful; I love the wild, raw, powerful look. While I wouldn’t be fond of wind like that all the time, it feels so energizing to experience this on occasion. We lived in Newfoundland for a few years (a very windy place) and I remember that feeling well.
Phil & Michaela
It is a fabulous feeling with the sea spray in your face although it makes for an exhausting walk when you are walking against such strong winds 😊
Lookoom
It’s a reminder that life by the sea is not a long, quiet holiday, the wind comes in and makes a mess at times. Nice spectular pictures.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you
leightontravels
It’s been fun following this trip and a solid reminder that we should see some of Cornwall ourselves. Did you happen to spot that Walrus they were talking about on the news?
Phil & Michaela
Ha no, knew nothing about it till we saw the news on TV that evening. But the guy they interviewed was the guy we met when we did our sea safari a couple of weeks back. It’s 42 years since I first visited Cornwall and after many many visits I still love the place. I am dealing with a very strong calling to up sticks and move down there permanently.
grandmisadventures
Lovely pictures! I have really enjoyed following along with your visits to Cornwall. I have showed your posts to my husband and keep telling him ‘don’t you think we could live here?’ One of these days I’ll convince him 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Well funnily enough I’m trying to persuade Michaela right now on that very subject!
rkrontheroad
You could pick a windy time like you described and see if you can let it push you along to make the long hike shorter. I was laughing out loud at your description. Brave souls out there!
Phil & Michaela
It was fun. Honest!
Annie E Berger
I’ve also been following your Cornwall adventures and long hikes with great admiration. I think Steven and I would have turned back once faced with not being able to open up the car door! Felt like I was there walking alongside of you both as I watched your video and reading your colorful descriptions. How much fun you must have had joining up with fellow travelers and bloggers Brian and Gilda in Padstow and trading travel stories! Captivated by your photos, especially of the wooden footbridge and the boats in the Padstow harbor.