The Path To Polzeath
Something is slightly different this morning as we stir from our slumbers, though it takes us a few minutes to register that it’s the air coming in through the bedroom window: it’s even colder than yesterday. A quick peek through the curtains reveals white grass and sparkling roof tiles – so here we are in mid April, way down in the South West which rarely sees harsh winter, with a proper, sharp frost to start our second day. Whatever happened to that global warming thing??!
Today’s walk takes us along the northern side of the estuary from Rock to Polzeath, so we begin with the ferry across the River Camel to Rock as boat trips and speedboat rides take advantage of the high tide and form snow white wakes across the surface like jet trails against a blue sky. The unusual moniker of the river has its origins in the Cornish language – “kammel” in Cornish means “crooked”, and the Camel does indeed turn a complete right angle as it flows past Padstow harbour and into the estuary.
Having decided to go only as far as Polzeath today rather than to the headland at Pentire Point, we compensate by taking the steepest route up and over the top of Carn Brae, where from the summit we have glorious panoramic views across the estuary and out to sea. Descending from the Brae we cross the beach at Daymer Bay, a perennial favourite with kite surfers, and head on past the numerous rock pools opposite the Doom Bar.
Polzeath itself is a large, splendid family friendly beach flanked on both sides by high cliffs as it narrows in from the sea in a kind of V shape. As we approach along the coast path, a large number of surfers are heading out into the water indicating that the tide is about to turn, their black wetsuits dotted amongst the waves like flies on a windscreen. This is one of North Cornwall’s more popular beaches – not really surprising given its size, accessibility and natural beauty. One of those beaches which is still lovely even when busy.
We return along the beach and rock pools rather than back over the Brae, discussing how the colours, the dunes and the soft sand just add to the perfection of this magnificent corner of England.
21 Comments
Andrew Petcher
When I was a boy we used to go to a holiday bungalow in Rock, long before it became so popular.
Phil & Michaela
Yes Rock certainly gained in popularity over a sustained spell, is very much a “second home for the wealthy” location. So much so that it earned the nickname “Kensington on Sea”
Toonsarah
Beautiful coastal scenery again, and I love the details of the flowers and shells 🙂 I hadn’t realised there was an actual Doom Bar which presumably lent its name to the beer?
Phil & Michaela
Yes. Doom Bar beer was initially brewed here, at Sharps Brewery in Rock village, before its marketing genius sold it to the nation and it became so widespread. It’s now brewed away from the area, in massive quantity! But yes, it was named after the sand bank at the mouth of the estuary here. Sharps also have a beer called “Atlantic”, but more amusing, like a kind of private joke, a beer called “Sea Fury”, which is the name one of the tourist speedboats here in Padstow. Lovely irony!
Toonsarah
I did know it was from Rock but not about the Doom Bar, nor those other Sharps beers you mention. Sadly that’s a familiar tale – even Newcastle Brown Ale is no longer brewed in the city!
normareadtalktalknet
The colours are incredible 😍
Monkey's Tale
So beautiful! What a gorgeous coastline!
Phil & Michaela
It’s beautiful, never tire of it when we are here 😊
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Great photos!
WanderingCanadians
Padstow honestly looks like it could be in the Caribbean with those sandy beaches and clear waters.
Phil & Michaela
Ha, except it’s an awful lot colder!
Lookoom
I noticed that most of the pictures are of a large landscape, maybe that’s what strikes you when you arrive, all this space around you.
Linda K
Beautiful beach area! Love the close ups at the end of the plant life. Looks like a wonderful place to spend an afternoon.
Steven and Annie Berger
How fortunate you both were to discover an empty paradise. Do you think it was the early season, Covid-19, or is it normally so devoid of people?
Annie
Phil & Michaela
It gets much busier in season Annie – it’s only April so it’s normally fairly quiet at this time if year. And although COVID restrictions have lifted a little bit, there’s no indoor catering so no cafes, restaurants or pubs apart from outdoor tables. I think that’s still putting a lot of people off visiting anywhere.
grandmisadventures
So happy to follow along on another beautiful walk! I love the rocky shores along that beautiful blue water. 🙂
Phil & Michaela
So many lovely places here in Cornwall
wetanddustyroads
You had really beautiful views from Carn Brae and that beach at Polzeath looks like a tourist attractions – it is indeed a lovely beach!
Oh yes, and the photo’s of that little flowers are a really a nice touch to your post … although cold, it seems spring is showing its colours 🌸.
Phil & Michaela
Yes temperatures are still struggling but it’s slowly warming up. But the clear sunshine shows Cornwall’s colours at their best
Gilda Baxter
The Camel Estuary looks so beautiful, I can’t believe the colour of that water. Polzeath is a dream of a beach, I definitely want to visit it. I am taking notes of all these places for my trip in May, I just hope the weather will be nice.
Phil & Michaela
Not joking when we say this estuary is one of our favourite places on Earth, in spite of being relatively well travelled. Wonderful place, we’re sure you will love it.