Croatian Islands: Korčula

It’s only 6.20am in sleepy Stari Grad but there’s drama at the bus station as we await our early morning ride. An irate elderly couple pull up in their car and accost two females waiting for the same bus as us; a row ensues, money changes hands and the couple speed off. We can only conclude that the two females have exited their guest house without settling their debts: how incredibly rude, if we are right.

Drama over, it’s breakfast at Hvar Town port and then the early catamaran to our next island destination, Korčula, where we are met by our next host Tonci and taken to our seventh home of this Croatia tour, and once again we have sensational views from our new abode.

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We are based in the main town, also named Korčula which amongst other things revels in being the birthplace of Marco Polo. Or so they claim, though historians doubt it and the evidence is sketchy, based on the fact that his family was captured here in Korčula, during a battle between the Venetians and the Genovese which took place sometime roughly close to his birth. His “house of birth” is now a Marco Polo museum, not allowing ambiguity to get in the way of a decent claim to fame.

Islands are scattered all around us in the bay outside the town, though the mountains towering opposite across the waters are actually on the mainland, being part of the Peljesac peninsular which stretches a remarkable 90km out to sea from further south. It’s a striking geographical feature which looks like this:

Korčula Town is an ancient walled city with large sections of the city walls and towers, and two of the grand city gates, still intact. It’s a little like a mini Dubrovnik, sitting proudly out to sea with St Marks Cathedral perched at its pinnacle. Character wise, Korčula is holiday friendly, with a succession of tourist style restaurants strung along the veranda constructed on top of the city wall and looking out to sea: all extremely attractive but not as authentic as our other stops on this tour. Rather than grilled fish over open wood fires, it’s pizza overkill. Of course, there are good authentic places (Dida is our favourite find) but you do have to go looking for them. Dida seriously delivers though: it’s back to watching your meal cooked over the wood fire right in front of you, it’s back to gloriously fresh fish and seafood and vegetables soaked in the delicious Korcula olive oil.

The plus side of a holiday friendly base is of course that there is plenty to do. Our own indulgence in Korčula’s delights are

• Taking a water taxi to the village of Lumbarda, which actually has a couple of genuinely sandy beaches.
• Climbing the hill behind the town to Fort Wellington, built by the British. We seem to have climbed hills up to forts fairly regularly on this trip!
• Exploring the steep narrow passageways of the old town and walking the city walls.
• Taking the short ferry ride to Peljesac peninsula on the mainland to visit the lovely little seaside town of Orebić.
• Enjoying copious quantities of the very good local wines, especially on the very well constructed wine tour which takes you to several of the island’s vineyards to sample wines, liqueurs, olive oils, cheeses and honey…and the tastings are in generous proportions. We learn a lot about the local varieties, the history of the unusually shaped grapes which go to make the renowned Posip wines, how the Grk wine is better in one village than another, and how the island is better for whites, the Peljesac peninsula for reds. 
• Climbing the cathedral bell tower and a city wall tower for great panoramic views of the town and other islands.
• Spending a quirky hour in a so-called “semi submarine”, sitting in a cabin about 5 feet below the surface and observing marine life through large windows. The size of the shoals is incredible, the sheer quantity of fish amazing. Just the sight of the sea bed is an experience, enhanced by the brilliant shafts of sunlight dancing through the water. 
• Sheltering from a colossal thunderstorm which turned the narrow streets of the old town into raging torrents.
• Sipping cold beers on the city wall balcony in the evenings, looking across the sea to the lights of Orebic twinkling in the warm air.

 Korčula has been our longest stop in one place on this trip, with precisely one week here and, like all the other destinations on this Croatian journey, has been lovely. Slightly more touristy than some of the others, but lovely nonetheless.

And as we approach our final day here before returning for our final few days in Split, news breaks that Croatia has been removed from the UK travel corridor list, meaning we will now have to quarantine for 14 days on our return. For the joy of discovering different parts of this beautiful country, it’s been well worth that inconvenience. 

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