Northwards to Chiang Mai

The evening flight from Krabi brings us to the 700-year old city of Chiang Mai, over 900 miles north of our previous location and some 3,000 feet higher. With a domestic flight and an airport so close to the centre, it’s a satisfyingly quick transfer and we get from aeroplane seat to hotel room in record time.

From Koh Lanta to Krabi, the road trip by minibus, or minivan as it’s called here, had its own dramas, the driver continually pulling off the route to pick up more passengers and luggage even though we seemed already full to bursting. Each time we felt there wasn’t another inch of space, on came more, until the van was utterly rammed with people and baggage. And then we stopped again, for two very sizeable passengers with equally expansive luggage to board. Bags are strapped to seat backs, the aisle is rammed, and passengers nurse the bags of other passengers on their laps. No wonder it was the cheap option!

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As expected, the evening air is slightly cooler than the islands but is still very pleasantly warm as we poke our noses out for our first sortie within the Old City walls, quickly finding exciting street food and taking our first Chiang Mai meal at a street side plastic table. We also sample salapao, a local sweet parcel in an unusually chewy coating.

The city is much more compact than Bangkok, yet houses over 300 temples within its confines, probably enough to satisfy even the most ardent temple-ologist. There might just come a point when we’ve templed ourselves to the max if we’re not careful. Old Chiang Mai nestles within a square which was originally the city walls – bits of the wall and its gates remain, but the remaining line of the wall is now a moat with fountains and bridges.

Character wise, the city isn’t quite what we expected, only parts of the Old City have a feel of the East, with much of the city quite modernised and much more of it catering for its many visitors. The feel of an Asian city is here, but you have to work fairly hard to find it. 

Our first day in Chiang Mai we visit as many of the 300 temples as we can. Wat Phra Singh (golden temple) is visible from our room, we head there first, its golden stupa dazzling in the morning sunlight, the grounds tranquil, soft chanting music drifts through the gentle breeze, Buddhist mantras hang in the trees, it’s peaceful here.

Wat Chedi Luang is considered by some as the oldest in Chiang Mai, its colossal crumbling walls still housing giant elephant sculptures, this must have been an imposing structure in its day, as it’s pretty impressive now. There are several temples within its grounds and it seems to be home to a Buddhist monk school, a group of young monks are sitting in the shade, chatting and enjoying their class, on closer look they have sketch pads and each has produced excellent representations of the serpents which adorn many of the temple balustrades.

Wat Sri Suphan (Silver Temple) is completely made of silver and is a spectacular sight, kept in good order by the numerous silversmiths who reside in this area; it’s also not the first temple we have come across where women are not allowed in so I have to rely on Phil’s photography to see the beautiful silver interior. Wat Lok Molee is just outside the old town wall, one of the older temples and equally as stunning.  The list goes on, at the turn of every corner yet another temple, and yes, we become templed out….. for the day anyway.

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A second day and a 40 minute journey in a Songthaew into the surrounding mountains to Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep perched high up overlooking Chiang Mai.  This temple is perhaps the most important one in the region and is simply stunning.  A steep climb of 300 steps, ornate Naga serpents form the banisters for the entire climb, we are rewarded by the most dazzling gold stupa, and an array of Buddhas.  Candles and flowers adorn the Buddhas, people kneeling giving thanks and a stream of people slowly walking clockwise around the golden stupa, chanting and carrying flowers which are later placed at the feet of one of the Buddhas. The two Viharn (assembly halls) are like treasure troves of Buddhism, we kneel and take in this wondrous site and move towards the awaiting monk who blesses us with a shower of water from a bamboo brush and the gift of a bracelet placed carefully on Michaela’s wrist. What a special place this is.

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Back in old Chiang Mai we visit one last temple. Wat Chiang Man is one of the oldest temples in Chiang Mai, set in serene gardens, the base of the stone Chedi is decorated by 15 life size carvings of elephants. It’s an amazingly tranquil corner of the city, and again mantras for life are hung from the trees. Despite the number we’ve visited, there is something special about this one, and we almost feel that we inadvertently left the best temple till last.

The third and final day of our time in Chiang Mai is a combination of market tours and a very enjoyable and peaceful one hour longtail boat trip on the River Ping. But our time here ends on a high, the Saturday night market turning out to be the best one here, full of local craft stalls and alive with atmosphere – cool buskers and great street food everywhere. The Khao Soi from one of the stalls is the best we’ve tasted.

Our time in Chiang Mai has had its moments, watching ten minutes of an amazing sport called Sepak Takraw was incredible, and the local dish of Khao Soi is another on the “delicious food” list, but in summary this city is unlikely to make our top ten ever visited and we are content to move on now.

We head next to spend a few days in a more rural setting, a tribal village in the hills…