Bangkok: The Adventure Begins

It was the novelist Alex Garland who christened Bangkok “the centre of the backpacking universe”, and, by reputation, several other universes ranging from sex tourism to lady boys to diverse cuisine, are centred here. However, on the City Line train and MRT from the airport to the centre, it seems to us that Bangkok has become the centre of the face mask universe. Most likely the propensity of Asians for wearing protective masks in city atmospheres has been intensified by the Coronavirus scare, but whatever, most of the passengers are sporting one.

An overnight flight from the UK means that it is late afternoon as we check in the hotel, despite having had in flight breakfast just before landing, and so our first sortie into this city is for our first taste of its nightlife. Khao San Road will no doubt be about as far away from authentic Thailand as you can get, but it has to be done and we may as well dive straight in.

As you would expect, this street is hedonistic, loud, pulsating and sultry, full of life and colour, and it’s fun to melt into it. Adjacent to Khao San Road is Ram Buttri Road, a few decibels down the scale but with live bands in virtually every bar it’s a great alternative to its better known neighbour, and just a little bit more …. errr…. sensible? 

So it’s beer in Khao San Road, Thai curry in Ram Buttri Road listening to a blues band with a liking for a Eric Clapton songs (nothing wrong with that!) and, later on, a second stroll up and down Khao San Road. With the evening wearing on, the volume controls are nearing ear bleed territory and there is direct correlation between the decibel level of a bar and the number of people in it. What it is to be young!

Our tuk-tuk ride is of the Formula 1 variety, the rush of cool air on our faces most welcome. 

Waking to our first full day in Bangkok, the city is still quiet, temples amidst high rise buildings shrouded in the city haze and early morning sun, terrific views from our 19th floor balcony.  We are staying in the heart of Chinatown, but have purposefully opted out of taking hotel breakfast, part of our intention instead to maximise the street food experience.  Shops are just opening, market stalls being set out, street vendors preparing food and lighting their barbecues in readiness for the hungry passers by.  Halfway along Yaowarat Road there is a crowd of people on the pavement, a closer look reveals that it’s a queue for a tiny eatery, it must be good here so we take our place amongst the locals. Breakfast is a far cry from a full English or a continental and the bowl of double boiled noodle soup with pork, crackling, chicken and liver is delicious!

We assign the rest of the day to following the tourist trail and take in the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaeo and Wat Pho with its colossal “reclining Buddha” before taking the ferry across the river to Wat Arun. The Palace and all of the Wats (temples) are on such a huge scale and are simply stunning, the architecture incredible, the colours amazing and the gold dazzling in the blazing sun. Every corner turned brings another wow moment. 

The short ferry trip each way across the Chao Phaya River really brings home the architectural diversity of Bangkok, with cityscape modern high rise towers, gleaming golden temples, billboards praising the King, and cluttered decaying wharf buildings all visible in the same scene.