Uncovering Andros

Andros is an island renowned for trekking and hiking, so we have allocated this part of the trip for a bit of walking activity mixed in with exploring the island, which is known as both the “island of water and dreams” and the “princess of the Cyclades”. The former name comes, unsurprisingly, from the island’s plentiful supply of fresh water from numerous natural springs.

So it is then that armed with a trail map and water supply, we head off inland from Gavrio, more intending to get a feel for the quality of the trails rather than take on a major hike on day one. Well, if this is the quality we can expect, then we are in for a proper treat.

On the evidence of today, the trails are not only carefully waymarked, but also numbered, making navigation extremely easy, plus of course taking you to the best viewpoints and most important landmarks. Underfoot, the terrain is constantly changing, a combination of ancient donkey trails used by farmers of old, dry stream beds, and shale tracks.

The climb out of Gavrio is steep and tiring, but affords fabulous views back down to the bay. From up here you can still see that the ferry is docking, but the pageant and chaos of the ferry disgorging and reloading is taking place in distant silence. Only down by the port can you really appreciate the mad 20 minutes with each ferry call.

Our hike takes us along and around Trail 15, up to the ancient settlement of Ano Agios Petros, with its mysterious Hellenestic era tower, probably a lookout but its true history unclear. The freshwater spring below the quaint church gushes crystal clear water into the small reservoir tanks below. 

Between the village and the tower we pass fig trees with ripe fruit; the ones we pick are so juicy and sweet they are delicious. Why Adam & Eve listened to that damned serpent and ate apples when there was an abundance of figs in the garden is a complete mystery.

The ancient village turns out to be the zenith of the walk, from here we descend towards the coast, ending up at Agios Pedros beach, a beautifully quiet sandy stretch with calm waters and rocky islets offshore. Quite possibly the nicest beach of the trip so far.

It’s only a 25 minute stroll back into Gavrio, the sun still warm and Meltemi just gently cooling. Once again we sit on our balcony watching the ferries come and go and the lights of the tavernas come on as the sun drops behind the headland. We don’t think we would ever tire of this: the ferry’s arrival signals 20 minutes of chaotic activity; noise, shouting, the whistles of the officials, the blasts on the ship’s horn, the booming public announcements on board ship; cars, lorries and people everywhere. Then within seconds of its departure, silence falls. The pageant is over, the little terminal deserted and silent, not a soul to be seen. Until the next one.

Lights in tavernas reflecting in the water; the surrounding hills now silhouettes against the darkening sky; the chatter of Greeks drifting up from the street below; Aegean blue turning silver. Ahead of us, three full days exploring the princess of the Cyclades before we move on once more. This feels good.

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