Polignano A Mare And Corpus Domini

Polignano has a reputation as the destination for Bari city dwellers for their Sunday outing, and we find ourselves heading there on a Sunday. It’s about an hour’s drive from our base in Molfetta, but easily navigated along the SS16 coastal highway which bypasses Bari.

It’s instantly attractive, sitting atop rugged cliffs pitted with caves and steep sided coves. Divers and jumpers plunge into the sea off the high rocks, crowds watch the rolling sea from the many viewpoint balconies, and the tight white pebble beaches are filled to every square inch by day trippers.

We hear more English voices in the first ten minutes than we have in the whole time since we left Alberobello six days ago. But there is always a reason that somewhere becomes an area’s leading tourist trap, and in Polignano it is because it is both spectacular and pretty. Traffic is barred from the centro storico during the day, and the town has a pleasant holiday feel. Our day here is extremely enjoyable and includes time on the crowded beach and a couple of dips in the Adriatic. 

The atmosphere is different when we return to Molfetta. Tonight is Corpus Christi, also known as Corpus Domini, a major date in the Roman Catholic calendar and there is an excited but respectful buzz around the cathedral, security and police everywhere, microphones and speakers set up on the pavement. Groups of clergymen begin to gather, priests and monks, a mass of robes of various colours, whites, golds, red, brown. Priests in black sporting shades, looking so elegant you could easily imagine them as film stars with their gowns hand made by Armani! Choir boys arrive looking angelic dressed in white and gold. Standards being carried by children. Dignitaries begin to arrive in full military uniforms, they all file into the cathedral for this evening’s event.

Later as we take our early evening stroll, the town is busier than ever, this special day has clearly brought all the locals out. The cathedral now emptying, we see the Bishop on the steps, happy being photographed with children of his congregation, this has clearly been a important celebration for the Italian people.

It’s always fun to adopt a bar as your “local” when travelling, and we have a great one here. Although sitting watching the harbour and sunset at Bar Duomo is lovely, our real fun has come along the waterfront at Bar Cipriani, although we’ve nicknamed it Mario’s. Each visit here we have been welcomed like old friends, we’ve chatted to the owner, seen a live band, sampled the draft beer (Belgian, strangely), even been scrambled a table and chairs from the stockroom out back when the bar was full. It’s been a good part of our enjoyment of our week in Molfetta.

We end our day on our balcony, the silence of the night only broken by the crashing waves below. Looking out into the darkness we see the lights of the fishing fleet as it leaves the harbour one by one forming one long line before us. It’s as if they are waiting for the others to join them before heading off out to the horizon like an army going into battle. There has been no fishing all weekend, the fleet moored in the harbour for 2 days. Was this choreographed exit from the harbour a ceremonial part of the earlier celebrations or just the regular Sunday night ritual after a weekend off? We don’t know the answer, but it’s a cool late night sight.