More Adriatic Adventure And A Church Puzzle

There is a definite theme to these towns along this stretch of Puglia’s Adriatic coastline. The oldest part, always tight quaint streets lined with tall attractive buildings, huddles inside a semi circular section of the most prominent headland, so making defence simpler in years gone by. Bell towers and domed roofs of the churches punctuate the skyline and watch over the harbour. The newer parts of town radiate inland and along the shoreline away from the “centro storico”. 

We have a mystery though. We know that what separates a cathedral from a church is that a cathedral is a seat of a bishop. We also know that “duomo” is the Italian for cathedral (Google tends to confirm this). And, we also know that a Basilica is a church not dedicated to a particular Saint, often in a town with no cathedral. So how come these Puglia towns have all three: a Duomo, a Cathedral AND a Basilica? Someone explain!

Next town south from Molfetta is Giovinazzo, another town fitting the above description but just possibly the prettiest we’ve seen so far, with a large piazza around the Duomo and a very attractive seafront. There’s also a great restaurant here – La Cucciara (“The Spoon”), where we have such a good lunch that we vow to return before we end this holiday, preferably when not driving! 

We’ve had a weather change today, the endless sun of the last week being replaced by looming cloud, creating a stillness and humidity which feels very different. Conversely, the afternoon brings breezes, the humidity is blown away and the Adriatic is a little choppy, for the very first time. 

As we soak up the sun when it eventually arrives, it occurs to us that we are yet to hear a single English (or American, or Australian) voice in Molfetta, and this is our fifth day here. We like that. A lot. 

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