Molfetta, Puglia

In Matera it was swallows; in Molfetta it’s swifts and parakeets, a particularly noisy combination!

Molfetta appears to be a town with distinct sections: the old town nestled in a tight area around the Duomo, the port and marina area stretching along the coast to the north, and the main town which despite being a little more modern is still attractive in its own right. The old town though, where we are staying, has most of the charm. 

Clearly once a densely populated area with high tenement buildings and tight, narrow streets, considerable recent renovation of the old town has taken place to return this compact area to its original glory. Hidden within these tiny streets, locked and invisible by day, are a small number of trattoria and osteria which spill out into the mini piazzas after dark. 

Molfetta continues to be a thriving port, and a busy fishing harbour. Having enjoyed the income brought in by these activities for generations there has it seems been no need to embrace tourism and we haven’t yet seen even one hotel anywhere in town.

The only town beach is a small artificial stretch near the duomo, but family sunbathing and swimming from the rocks is obviously popular. The main town is a latticework of streets and piazzas, many of them tree lined, dotted with a number of green spaces. It’s a town going about its daily business.

Looking back to the old town and duomo across the water is beautiful at any time of day, but with a honey glow as the sun sets and the lights come on it is particularly attractive.

A bit of a recap on food. A staple in Matera was a green vegetable they translate as “turnip tops”, so tasty and soaked in the wonderful Puglia olive oil: 40% of Italy’s production of olive oil comes from this region. One other unusual accompaniment is pepperoni crusco; thin red peppers opened then fried in intense heat until completely crisp. Of course, there are many regional pastas, though the one which dominates is orecchiette, delicious with the turnip tops. Apparently Molfetta has its own specialty: fried pizza. Not too sure about that one! Now that we are on the coast, seafood is predictably more prevalent, there may be some surprises in store in that area.

Did we forget to mention the Primitivo wines? Deliciously tasty and not at all expensive. 

At nightfall we watch a spectacular sunset across the harbour, fiery orange filling the sky and reflecting in the windows of the seafront buildings. A glass of Aperol spritz seems to be the perfect accompaniment.